London 2014: Beer

In London earlier this summer I sampled about a dozen beers over two days (having people to share tastes with helps), at locations ranging from a unpretentious 19th century English Pub with many 3.5-4% session beers on Cask (at The Wenlock Arms-- I highly recommend it)… …to a new craft beer oriented bar ( Brewdog) carrying the likes of Mikkeller and other unusual beers, in the controversial-in-London Shoreditch… …to a range of tiny top-notch modern microbreweries located under support arches in an industrial part of South London, formerly business-oriented but now open to visitors on weekends and dubbed " The Beer Mile"… ...

October 27, 2014

Homebrew #12: Milk Stout w/ Figs

A lead on a free crop of backyard figs with a few weeks until they fell triggered the preserving instinct… and instead of jam, how about my first homebrew aged on fruit? The only fig beer I’ve had was a sour beer at Cascade in Portland, which I didn’t really like, so I tried to think of other combination… fig saison? figs and oatmeal? figs and cream? Hmm, how about a milk stout (a stout with lactose sugar, which yeast can’t ferment, leaving a sweeter beer) with figs? ...

October 26, 2014

pasta-making class

results of pasta class: hand-pulling orecchiette: agnolotti filled with rabbit and pork

October 17, 2014

Exotic Citrus Shrubs (Makrut Lime, Yuzu)

Coming across unusual, briefly-in-season, quick-spoiling fruit at Monterey Market yet again inspires cold-infused shrubs to extend the experience. Fresh Makrut limes, unlike any other citrus in fragrance: Oleo saccharum yields the most intense flavors (shown here, Yuzu, an east asian citrus): It’s a pain to juice a yuzu: And a week later I strained and bottled them (I didn’t have time for real labels):

October 5, 2014

Single Malt, Single Hop, Single Gallon (Homebrewing)

I’ve kept homebrewing a low-tech, visceral, hands-on hobby as a contrast to large engineering systems that occupy another part of my life. Part of this has been focusing on the process, ingredients, and history more than the equipment. Partial-mash brewing (mashing modest quantities of grain but depending on liquid barley malt extract for more of the sugars) is one way to more easily brew indoors on a small electric stovetop rather than having to manhandle 15lbs of grain through multiple kettles, and I’ve been happy with several of the beers I’ve made using this method. ...

October 5, 2014

Steak, zucchini-hazelnut-basil salad.

Starting to cook weeknight dishes from Ottolenghi’s Plenty. The salad was simple but surprisingly good.

October 2, 2014

Cider Pressing and Fermenting

85 lbs of backyard apples + 19th century cast iron grinder and cider press + an afternoon of elbow grease (x2) + yeast + a few months = single-varietal Adina hard cider: The raw juice had a pH of 3.3 (a reasonable level for hard cider) and a specific gravity of 1.050 (expected, should result in a 6.5% ABV cider after fermentation all the way to dry). ...

September 4, 2014

Intense Flavors + Foraged Flowers: Elizabeth, Chicago

A phenomenal dinner, with about 15 small, interesting courses over the course of three hours. Tiny intense burst of flavor from small flowers, herbs, and berries (nightshade, queen anne’s lace, fennel pollen, and other flowers) on top of a range of creative and perfectly-seasoned dishes each highlighting a few beautiful ingredients (including malted barley, bear jerky, beets, a few kinds of mushrooms, tomatoes, and roe). And by lucky chance they sat us right next to the kitchen. I do always enjoy that. ...

September 4, 2014

Small Chicago Food Highlights: Avec, Heritage, Do-Rite

A few other notable small food stops in Chicago that I’d recommend based on this past weekend: Heritage Coffee and Bicycle Shop-- just a great atmosphere, good people, excellent espresso shots and sour cherry lemonade, some bike accessories to browse (and a full repair shop). Do-Rite Donuts -- the meyer lemon / pistachio cake donut was delicious, and perfectly cooked (moist fully-cooked cake center, slightly crispy outside). There were also many people in line for their next batch of gluten-free donuts. ...

September 3, 2014

Last visit to Hot Doug's (wild game sausages in Chicago, closing forever)

Hot Doug’s, the encased meat emporium in Chicago, closes for good at the beginning of October, after 13 years. I’d been there once about three years ago, but only to get a basic dog before heading to Alinea, so news of its impending closing was enough to motivate a labor day weekend vacation back to Chicago… The line was several buildings long, down the street past some neighbor’s yard (maybe four times as long as shown in the photo here): ...

September 2, 2014

Strawberry Balsamic Cider Peppercorn Shrub

Shrubs (drinking vinegars) are one of my favorite ways to preserve fruit – it goes a long way, it’s shelf stable even at room temperature, and it works as an addition to sparkling water, in salad dressing, or in a cocktail. Between holiday gifts and internal consumption (especially since I bought a Sodastream), the citrus shrubs from April and December were mostly gone. Fortunately, a trip to Swanton Berry Farm (pick-your-own) resulted in a box of small, flavorful, moderately-overripe-and-turning-to-paste-under-their-own-weight strawberries. ...

August 18, 2014

SF Street Food Festival

I spent a few hours at the SF Street Food Festival, which is not just any collection of food carts but a fundraiser for La Cocina and showcase for its members (“The mission of La Cocina is to cultivate low income food entrepreneurs as they formalize and grow their businesses by providing affordable commercial kitchen space, industry-specific technical assistance and access to market opportunities.”) This year I tried to eat at “La Cocina member” booths I hadn’t heard of and mostly skip the known-good usual suspects… and dish after dish was delicious. The nine things I put in my mouth are below (I got the “small plate” option at every booth to keep going as long as I could…): ...

August 17, 2014

Strong, Dark, Old Beer

A one-of-a-kind evening of strong, dark, and old beers with friends. Some of us had been hanging on to some beers for years without quite the right excuse to crack them open… problem solved. Not a wedding, new year, baby shower, or birthday, just a casual evening hanging out with lentil soup and bread. Goose Island Bourbon County Stout *2007*, Westvleteren 12 and 8 eBayed from Belgium years ago, Half Acre’s special Sanguis beer brewed with oranges and beets for one specific dinner at Next, an excellent imperial porter from High Water, a 10.5% imperial stout in a can, homebrew, and more. ...

August 14, 2014

Food and Beer across rural Iowa, Wisconsin

Traveling across Iowa and Wisconsin, I tried a fair amount of local craft beer… and a lot of meat and potatoes and ice cream (along with one fancier excellent meal at Forequarter in Madison). A few memories: The West O ( West Okoboji) lager was nicely crisp and well done. I finally had the all-the-rage New Glarus Spotted Cow and a few others from New Glarus and they were solid, good beers but didn’t blow me away. ...

August 1, 2014

Forequarter, Madison

In Madison for a few days, I had one deeply excellent dinner at Forequarter. The pan-roasted broccoli, the ham plate, the scallop crudo with fennel and grapefruit, and especially the carrot pasta with carrots and a rich carrot greens pesto were all very good.

August 1, 2014