Gelik Atakoy (near the airport, outside the city, though there are two other locations) was another local recommendation in Istanbul, and was probably my favorite meal of the trip (followed by the informal adana kebab in the Grand Bazaar). To start, a sort of rice pilaf with lots of cracked black pepper (excellent – I don’t know if it was fresher or different black pepper, or if there were other spices as well), a salad, some pulped eggplant (in white), and more adventurously (the brownish-pink lump): çig köfte, a sort of meatball of raw ground beef, bulgur, and red pepper. I liked it quite a bit. [ side note: looking up its name later turned up an NIH paper about the antimicrobial effects of chopped garlic in raw meat ] ...

(wrapping up a few food photos from a recent trip to Turkey): On the recommendation of a local, we went to Yüksel Balık, a good fish restaurant right by the ocean, a bit outside the city center. They bring you into a side room where recently-caught fish are laid out on a cold marble slab. You pick one or more, tell them how you want it cooked (they typically fry it), and get charged based on the weight. ...

A friend made some dry-cured (hopefully botulism-free) salami from scratch, from a wild boar a friend of his shot. Rich, spicy, excellent. I’ll ask him for details. I brought the beer. The Allagash Black (belgian crossed with a stout) and the Speakeasy Butchertown Black (hoppy and dark) were the favorites. The Upright Flora Rustica I’d liked so much in PDX was no good at all– sour and muddled. Oh, and rosewater-flavored Turkish Delight, back from Istanbul. ...

I suddenly had to go to Istanbul for a few days (long story). So, of course, I have to fit in some eating: People were drinking Turkish tea in small clear glasses with a lump of sugar everywhere I went. In the Grand Bazaar, I’d see delivery people running around with trays of 5 or 6 glasses of it. I finally happened on a tiny tea stand in the market where the runners were picking it up: ...

Once I heard it was anise-based (like Pernod, Pastis, Ouzo, and so on, but unsweetened, unlike Sambuca), I had to try the unofficial national drink of Turkey, Raki. Not bad, though better with food (cooked meat).

My favorite “tacos with lots of toppings” in SF. Moist clumps of grilled meat, pinto beans, mashed avocado (not guacamole), salsa. I was caught up in conversation with a friend and we accidentally stayed half an hour past closing (why didn’t they just kick us out?)

Okay, too much eating out, back to cooking (mostly from the Tuesday CSA). I meant to invite a few friends over but didn’t plan ahead. Red Kuri Squash, brushed with peanut oil, black pepper, and salt, baked about 30 minutes at 425F, until soft. No butter or sugar, and it was earthy and good with a dark belgian beer (St Bernardus Abt): Spigarello greens, which taste uncannily like broccoli, but not bitter (shredded and sauteed with about 8 cloves of crushed garlic until just starting to wilt). ...

Sure, I may be predictable in what I like. But every time here it’s different, yet so good! smoked duck, really good parsnips, kale: a mint pasta, with tiny radishes and clams: Not shown, but my favorite: pepper-infused pasta, braised pork, meyer lemon! I like sitting right by the kitchen and watching the sous chef triage orders and yell “fire the ____!” every few minutes. This sort of pine-y vermouth was amazing (with a black pepper and pine nut shortbreadish dessert) ...

Putting away a bag, I felt something in the side pocket… a Mast Brothers\* bar I’d forgotten I’d bought a few weeks ago: I’ve had a few of their other chocolate bars in the past, and liked them… but this Madagascar bar might be the best chocolate I’ve ever had. Astounding! A little fruity and tart tasting, without any added fruit (just cacao beans and sugar– no cocoa butter, oil, vanilla, etc). ...

Usually the robot must eat, but when he’s sick, he must drink tea:

The food in Eastern Germany and the Czech Republic was heavy meat-and-potatoes fare that had me missing Northern California. Hütt’n in Nuremberg was a cozy little wood-lined pub with maybe eight tables, and is the one restaurant I’d strongly recommend (get there on the early side or make a reservation…). At Hütt’n, Nuremberger sausages with a mustard-y potato salad (Franconian-style, I believe) and some strong horseradish, washed down with a dark-by-Germany’s-standards beer: ...

My two favorite beers from a few days in and near Germany (both from restaurant and beer bar Hütt’n in Nuremberg, on Burgstraße -- Nuremberg has a reputation for dark-for-Germany beers): Landbier Dunkel from Brauerie Reh. Coppery, slightly hoppy with no bitterness, very satisfying. Schwarze Anna from Brauerie Neder. Black, a sort of burnt chocolate taste (though not too heavy), reminded me of a stout. I also had (though less exciting): Leichtes Landbier from Brauerie Rittmayer A Czech pilsner I didn’t write down the name of, in Prague Every beer was reasonably good, and a welcome break from a bad beer I’d had in Asia, but nothing blew me away. I was also busy and slightly sick at the end of the trip, though, so beer tasting wasn’t at the top of my list. ...

Along with eating in Singapore, I had drinks at a few memorable places. The stout and blonde at the scenic Level 33 brewpub were my favorite: I had an unremarkable beer (maybe a Tiger?) on the rooftop deck at Prelude, a bar above the Boathouse restaurant adjacent to the Fullerton Hotel. Another nice place to spend a balmy winter evening. Finally, I had a “Tony Stark” (a transparent and successful attempt to sell a “manly” cocktail): it involved caramelized pineapple and black pepper, and was cute but a waste of money at $24 Singaporean ($18 US)). The 57th-floor views from the top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel and casino made up for that, though: ...

If a few days of eating near Shanghai let me down, eating in Singapore blew me away– the food was so consistently good, and varied. And some of my best experiences were street food or other inexpensive food (I already posted some photos of my amazing chicken rice experience at 109 Bukit Batok, West Avenue 6). Some other photos: The Maxwell Road Hawker Center (near Chinatown), a combination indoor/outdoor bazaar of many independent food vendors. ...