When I travel to a new region, I’ve realized the meal I’m often most interested in is breakfast. One reason is that most restaurant experiences at home are dinners– it’s rare to go out to eat and see what people make for breakfast. Fortunately, in many places around the world even modest hotels serve a breakfast buffet, so it’s easy to see and try a wide range of dishes.

I was in India for the first time recently (maybe I’ll post a few food highlights later), and one of my favorite breakfasts was milagu pongal– a savory, soft rice porridge where the main flavors seemed to be ghee, cashews, black peppercorns, and lots and lots of fresh green curry leaves. I ate various versions of it– some white in color, some more yellow (whether from the addition of a yellow-colored dal, turmeric, or something else), and served with either coconut chutney, sambal, or a light yellow potato curry (aloo bhaji). Sadly, I may have only taken this one blurry phone photo of pongal (at the top of the plate)…

I’ve wanted to try cooking it at home, but fresh curry leaves are such an integral part of the flavor I waited until I saw some in a market. Neither Indian cookbook I have mentions pongal (maybe it’s also known under another name?), so I browsed a few online recipes and the photos in this one looked like what I remembered, so I gave it a try with some light modifications– and I was very happy with the results so I’m writing this down.

For four modest servings (two people, plus a small amount of leftovers):

  • 3/4 cup short grain white rice
  • 1/4 cup split moong dal (I only had green moong dal with the skin still on)
  • ~2 Tbsp grated fresh ginger
  • ~15 fresh curry leaves
  • 2 Tbsp ghee (optionally, more to finish)
  • 1 Tbsp black peppercorns
  • 1/2 tsp cumin
  • pinch turmeric
  • 15 cashews

First, I toasted the dal in a skillet on medium heat until it was fragrant but not burned.

I rinsed the rice three times (the water the last time was mostly clear).

I brought the rice, dal, and 3 1/4 cups of water to a boil, then turned it down to a low simmer and mostly covered the pot with a lid. I occasionally checked them for doneness and to make sure the water wasn’t running dry, and at 45 minutes they were nice and soft and the water was just running out (it’s possible they were ready earlier).

While the rice and dal were simmering, I grated the ginger, lightly crushed the peppercorns (next time I would crush them more– I missed crushing a few which ‘popped’ when frying), and prepped the other ingredients.

I toasted split cashews in the ghee until golden (medium heat, just 30-60 seconds, stirring, don’t let them burn) and removed them to set aside.

Then I toasted the peppercorn and cumin in the ghee, on medium-high for ~15 seconds until fragrant. I turned the heat down to medium and added the ginger for another ~30 seconds. Finally, I added the curry leaves and cooked them until crispy, maybe a minute. I set this aside.

I had time while the rice+dal were cooking to also make a coconut chutney (*see notes below).

Once the rice/dal mix was soft, I stirred in the ghee and spice mixture and topped it with the cashews. It was delicious and the taste was very similar to what I remember. My partner stirred in some additional ghee and a bit of jaggery for a sweet take, but I liked it as is.

condiment: coconut chutney

I didn’t have fresh coconut but did have dried flakes in the pantry, so made a quick chutney from a mix of online notes. My first try was tasty but heavier on peanut flavor than I wanted, so here’s a revised version:

  • 1/2 cup dry coconut
  • 2 small red chiles
  • 2 small garlic cloves, crushed or minced
  • 1 Tbsp peanuts
  • (optional) 1 Tbsp split chana dal
  • brown mustard seed
  • water

Crush the chiles a bit and toast in a tsp of neutral oil until fragrant. Remove the chiles.

Fry the peanuts and dal (if using) in that oil, stirring so they don’t burn. Add the garlic and cook (medium heat so it doesn’t burn) until golden. Remove from heat and let this all cool. Blend the coconut, garlic, peanuts, dal, and about 1/4 cup of water until mostly smooth. For more heat, blend one of the chiles as well. Garnish with brown mustard seed and serve.

The taste was good, and the texture was decent, but I feel like it could use a bit of acidity. And when I do this again I may try hydrating the coconut flakes ahead of time in case that helps them blend more smoothly.