One of the best pasta tastings I’ve had there. The anise-ish tarragon in the beet mezzaluna! The stripes of mint in the tagliatelle with bottarga!
A reservation made months ahead of time turned out to be on the evening of a special cider-themed collaboration with Bushwhacker Cider. How fortunate.
Kitchen and dining room:
The chicories with leek ash and egg (no photo) were amazing.
Chestnut soup with fried Jerusalem artichokes:
Pickled quail egg, salmon roe…
Gin-barrel-aged cider. And Alice (their granny smith cider) on tap.
Butter turnips. Excellent rutabaga. And sure, some pork.
A few most memorable 2013 food moments. It’s partly about the food, partly about the company– pretty much all of these involved a small group of good friends.
- Finally roasting a chicken in a dutch oven, a basic life skill
- Making Tartiflette, with a Belgian beer tasting
- Milk-braising a pork shoulder = morning-after carnitas during an otherwise rough week
- Biking in the sun, eating dumplings (Western Lands Dumpling Tour)
- Five or six great dinners at flour + water, still my favorite bay area restaurant
- Two trips to Portland (Oregon, that is) with friends– and eating at Apizza Scholls and Screen Door and Evoe, with stops at the Horse Brass Pub on both trips.
- Having a Japanese-themed dinner party (many different pickles and farm food, sushi)
- Ramen Shop in Oakland
- Yakitori Alley under the Yurakucho train station
- Amazing sushi after lucking into Daiwa Sushi in Tsukiji market, Tokyo (skipping the 2-3 hour line since I was solo)
- Homebrewing all year, with one beer (a citrusy IPA) I think was actually quite good
(blah blah blah, year in review, blah blah blah)
The morning of my flight home from Tokyo, I headed to Tsukiji market to find some delicious raw fish. Quick phone research on the train suggested Daiwa was very well regarded and known for their toro (fatty tuna), so I had a plan.
Arriving, I saw a line into the street that folded back and forth on itself 8 times. 8. Looking back at the phone, my eyes caught the “only 11 seats at a counter… the wait can be two to three hours” bit I’d skimmed past. With a flight leaving in 5 hours, waiting, eating, and an hour or two on trains back to the hotel and then airport would be cutting it very close… and what if the wait were longer and I had to leave the line, hungry, at the last moment?
A minute into this indecision, and probably only two after I’d arrived, the host poked his head out the door and said “we have one spot. anyone here alone?” The entire line of couples and groups looked down at their feet. I paused a beat, looked around, and slowly raised my hand… and before I knew it he was parting the crowd and whisking me inside, past stares and a few murmurs.
Sometimes that just happens.
The chef brusquely said “omakase”, and proceeded to slap down one piece of sushi at a time every few minutes for the next half hour. I snapped a few photos but otherwise focused on trying to make each bite of very good, fresh fish last as long as I could.
Falling-apart-like-brisket toro (photo at the very top).
The best uni I’ve ever had (by a wide margin)– like a sweet ocean pudding, no brine at all.
A warm fried shrimp head.
The chu-toro — what might have been a cut from inside to outside of the fish, varying from deep red to marbled fatty pink along its length.
As well as ebi (sweet shrimp), tamago, hamachi, a maguro roll, ika (squid), hirame, tai, hotate, and anago (salt-water eel, vs. the more common fresh-water unagi).
I didn’t even touch the soy sauce– each piece had a dot of wasabi under the fish and occasionally a light brushing of some sauce, and didn’t need anything else.
Definitely in my top 5 sushi experiences, and with no wait in line and a modest price ($35 plus a few extras?) hard to beat.
I was in Japan recently. I didn’t go in with a food plan or have much time to explore, but still had some great, mostly-cheap eats.
One highlight was near Yurakucho Station in Tokyo: “One of Yurakucho’s most interesting draws is the lively restaurant district built up under the brick arches beneath the elevated train tracks of the JR Yamanote Line. Known in Japanese as Gado-shita, from “below the girder”, these favored watering holes of Tokyo businessmen occupy virtually all of the free space under nearly 700 meters of track.”
Didn’t eat here:
But instead ended up at the most populated-with-locals, boisterous yakitori joint (I figure that’s always a good sign), in a brick-lined alley underneath the tracks themselves, with waves of fragrant meat smoke billowing out. I didn’t see a name, but from a stranger’s blog that shows the same menu it looks like it was Tonton.
We ordered round after round of chicken thigh, leeks, shishito peppers, tsukune (chicken meatballs), pork, pig hearts, chicken skin, even tongue, and all for only $25/person ($14/person not counting the beer).
Sliced tangerine, satsuma, grapefruit, lemon, with pomegranate, feta, balsamic vinegar.
Spaghetti boiled to al dente, drained, a little water reserved. This pasta water, heavy cream, olive oil, and lemon zest boiled, then tossed with the pasta, along with grated pecorino and two lemons’ worth of juice.
(hat tip to holly)